Abstract:
This paper is about the impact fast fashion can have on our oceans and environment. The negative influence from society, celebrities, and social media has fuelled fast fashion and created a throw-away culture. The urgency to address the issue of fast fashion is crucial to halt further damage to the marine environment, thus this paper identifies technology, charities, and businesses that promote positive and sustainable fashion choices.
Introduction:
The impact people’s lives have on the environment are becoming apparent due to the rapid decline in environmental health such as climate change, ocean health, pollution, and environmental degradation. The health of the world requires sustainable solutions and people are taking this on board and trying to act in favour of the environment by making sustainable decisions, like recycling, limiting waste, and being conscience of the impact, we have on the natural world. The health of the planet could be determined by what we decide to wear, as textile production and the fashion industry has contributed ‘…more to climate change than international aviation and shipping combined…’ emphasising the destructive impact fashion products can have on the environment.[1] The term fast fashion has become prevalent as altering social trends are impacting the turnover over of fashion items, meaning that clothing is being mass produced at an alarming rate. Fashion is an essential part of life, history, and expression which means society’s curiosity is understandable and encouraged to push creative boundaries. The picture below was a dress I made at school to showcase the issue of pollution in the ocean, the idea being the dress was beautiful from the front but the train at the back was full of plastic and fishing nets. This is a perfect
representation of how fashion can be used to promote awareness of issues instead of causing them. However, society’s obsession with changing trends and the need for everything to be new is extremely damaging and the opposite of living sustainably. Fast fashion producing unsatisfactory and default products to maintain temporary social trends cause people to shop more frequently and buy more than they need.[2] This is causing great strain on the environment and increasing exploitation of workers, and it is worrying that the negative impact the fashion industry is having is not discussed regularly, especially by MP’s and regulators.
What is fast fashion:
The term fast fashion was originally used in the early nighties by the New York Times to promote the new brand ZARA, who aimed to have products in store within fifteen days.[3] The term was used to brag about the quick, cheap, and trendy fashion products being produced to meet consumers’ needs promptly. Today this is the business model for a lot of popular fashion companies that produce cheap and low-quality products through unethical routes to get to consumers. The products do not last long as they are made quickly with low quality fabric, and this only fuels the quick turn around of products to meet the new trends with new fashion items.[4] Products can be ordered straight to customers doors, enhancing the gravity of the situation by making products less likely to fit customers standards or expectations and landing straight in the bin.[5] It is estimated that every year around three-hundred thousand tonnes of textile waste will end up in households bins, which emphasises the destructive nature of the current shopping experience.[6] The accessibility of shopping items means people order more frequently than they need to. Shopping used to be a day trip visiting shops and looking for items needed for growing, changing seasons, or a special occasion. Today the shopping experience is built to over indulge with an estimate of eighty billion pieces of clothing produced, which is a four-hundred percent increase in two decades.[7] The cycle is destructive, and the low prices may seem accessible to people at the time of purchase, but regularly buying low quality clothing means that you are spending more on products that either end up in landfill or in the ocean.
Fast fashion is popular because it allows people to attain to the high fashion standards of trend setters and celebrities at an affordable cost.[8] It allows people to wear the clothes they see on TV and social media, but celebrities rarely wear an outfit more than once meaning that fashion is always changing creating the impact of fast fashion. It is important to highlight that fast fashion is not a ‘poor’ people issue, it is a global issue. The problem starts with upscale fashion pushing the unrealistic narratives that clothing cannot be worn more than once with celebrities and designers creating new trends to stay relevant in society. The only way people can keep up with this narrative is through fast fashion, as its amoral to allow celebrities to enjoy a level of fashion but making it inaccessible to others. The statement that fast fashion is a problem within low-income communities is something I always speak up against, as the issue is much greater than those who try and keep up with trends that society demands. As fast fashion is a relatively new problem it is understandable that people only view this type of clothing as a ‘bargain’ as that is what’s being advertised. People are starting to understand the implications of fast fashion and the impact it can have on the environment, as the Ellen MacArthur Foundation points out that sustainability is viewed as important by consumers now when assessing brands with a third admitting to go with brands that have a better image with environmental and social issues.[9] The responsibility should not be only on the consumer, as it is reasonable to assume products are of a relative quality if they are on retailer shelves. However, now that people are becoming aware of the negative connotations fast fashion can have ensures that customers shop more vigilantly.
The impact on our oceans:
The fashion industry has contributed significantly to the climate crisis with a 10% annual release of carbon emissions globally.[10] The clothes then end up in landfill or the ocean due to the quick turnover of products, with the Ellen MacArthur Foundation highlighting the heart-breaking statistic that by 2050 plastic will outweigh fish in our oceans.[11] Once the impact of plastic bottles polluting the marine environment was common knowledge people began to change to protect marine life, however, every year half a million microfibres from clothes end up in the ocean, which is equivalent to fifty billion plastic bottles.[12] This statistic can help illustrate the damage occurring from the fashion industry and the need to change beahviours towards fashion and clothing. Plastic polluting the oceans is still a problem, but communities changing behaviours by using reusable cups, shopping bags, and straws created a sustainable approach to limit plastic pollution. The fashion industry pollutes the oceans, landfill, and the atmosphere with toxic chemicals and plastic while using fresh water during production, which can consume entire lakes. The issue of pollution is extensive with synthetic fibres being found in the deep sea and Arctic Sea causing fish to consume the pollution and travel through food chains, thus fibres have been found in shellfish.[13] The cheap textiles used to keep up with the clothing demand required for fast fashion contributes heavily to global warming, with polyester being made from fossil fuels, and the microfibres being released to the ocean when washed increasing the damage to the marine environment.[14] Fast fashion is not sustainable and the increasing rate in which clothing is being produced, consumed, and ending up as waste in landfill or the ocean is alarming. The fact that the process of fast fashion uses vital resources, releases toxic chemicals, and produces waste and pollution throughout the products lifetime is beyond alarming and causes drastic damage to the environment. Therefore, something must change, and action needs to be taken to halt the production of low-quality clothing.
Laws on fast fashion:
The best way to describe the waste produced through fast fashion is the analogy of the over-flowing bathtub, where moping the floor won’t do anything to stop the problem, turning off the tap is the reasonable choice. This is the case for fast fashion, as mass producing clothing is causing a huge amount of waste and pollution that is filling up our ocean with harmful materials. The only way to stop this over-flow is to stop mass producing products and this can be achieved through strict laws and regulations. There are laws like the Modern Slavery Act and the National Minimum Wage Act, but when companies moved production to developing countries where exploitation of workers and unsafe working conditions contributed to the cheap manufacturing costs making it hard for UK regulations to impact supply chains abroad.[15] It is unfair to put the responsibility on the consumer to research products to see if they were made ethically, the responsibility should be on companies and the government to ensure all products are made without any form of exploitation of the environment or workers. In the past, MPs made eighteen recommendations with the aim to tackle throw-away culture, exploitation of the environment and workers. Unfortunately, the recommendations were turned down as the government claimed action was already occurring to battle the issues of fast fashion, but through voluntary means,[16] thus the new Environment Act 2021 does not tackle fast fashion directly. The Sustainable Clothing Action Plan (SCAP) is a voluntary scheme which links industry, government and the third sector with the aim to reduce the environmental impacts of clothing products, thus reducing carbon footprints and extending the lifecycle of products. Supporters promote the use of safe fabric and fibre choices, recycling old textile products, and promoting the Love Your Clothes campaign to customers. The SCAP 2020 Commitment invokes the recycle and reuse initiative for the clothing sector and working with the Ethical Trading Initiative, Sustainable Apparel Coalition, and clothing businesses to monitor supply chains to ensure that national goals for carbon emissions and waste prevention are being met.[17] Although this is a good step towards sustainable choices in clothing production, the rate at which fast fashion is occurring requires strict legislation to regulate companies exploiting the environment. Singing up to a commitment to reduce carbon footprints is good for a company’s brand, but this doesn’t mean they are actually taking the necessary steps to make a positive impact. The Competitions and Market authority started to investigate the use of greenwashing as advertising in 2022, with companies like ASOS and Boohoo using misleading terms on labels to claim products were environmentally friendly.[18] This is incredibly important to eradicate, as there are no real laws limiting the production of fast fashion, which means the responsibility is on the consumer. If consumers are being tricked into thinking a product is environmentally friendly, then the issue will never be resolved. It is upsetting that fast fashion can continue unregulated, but designers have begun to call out fast fashion brands over intellectual property rights as their designs are being plagiarised.[19] Therefore, the law protects intellectual property theft more than the environment and workers against exploitation. This means the responsibility to fight against fast fashion falls on the consumer.
Breaking the trend:
Fashion trends being created usually occurred at a slower rate but due to social media, technology, production, and accessibility advancements means that trends are becoming rapid and ever-changing. Celebrities have marketed trend setting along with clothing companies to profit on the quick turn around of trends to ensure more products are consumed. This has created negative relationships with clothing, meaning that fashion is no longer the creative pathway to showcase who you are, but to fit within society’s high standards and acceptance, even if that means social and environmental exploitation. The Ellen MacArthur Foundation predicted that if the current rate of clothing produced through fast fashion continues, then emissions will grow by 50% by 2030.[20] The planet cannot afford to let this prediction become a reality, which means severe behavioural and industry changes need to be made to halt further damage. The extensive damage the fashion industry is having on the environment might make individuals clothing choices seem like a drop in the ocean, but that choice could prevent further microplastics polluting that ocean.[21] Consumer choices can make a big difference in reducing the impact on the environment, for example, extending the use of clothes for nine months could reduce the ‘…carbon, water and waste footprints by 20-30% each.’[22] This empathises the impact one piece of clothing can have on the environment, with buying one cotton shirt which can ‘…produce the same amount of emissions as driving thirty-five miles in a car.’[23] Therefore, we have to break the unnecessary impulse to buy low-quality products that are not made to last, and hold those to account who create products unethically.
Although the issue of fast fashion and the impacts it can have on the environment are not discussed as often as it should, there are people creating significant changes to the industry. It is estimated that ‘…over a million tonnes of microplastics are discharged into our seas each year’ and companies like the Cleaner Seas Group have developed technology to tackle this problem.[24] The Indikon-1 is a microfibre filter for washing machines that catches the plastic particles from cleaning clothes and ensures it does not end up polluting our ocean.[25] Imagine if every household had this innovative technology, it would prevent further plastic pollution and protect the marine environment. Greenpeace has a Detox My Fashion campaign with the aim to get fashion brands to stop using hazardous material that will end up in our oceans and impacting marine wildlife.[26] The pledge got eighty companies to sign up while also naming and shaming the companies who continue to break regulations and emit hazardous waste to the environment.[27] Campaigning for sustainable consumption of clothing and innovative initiatives to prevent the impact on the environment is the way forward to redeem the fashion industry. The Oxfam Second Hand September campaign had 26,413 people sign up to buy less or second hand in 2022, which creates hope that there will be drastic behavioural change in consumer purchases in the future.[28] Communities are coming together to align with sustainable products, either shopping locally or taking part in repair cafes. Plastic Free North Devon holds repair cafes where volunteers and neighbours come together to help repair items instead of throwing them out. This increases the life cycle of clothing products and saves people money by preventing them from buying replicas.[29]
The fashion industry has been allowed to go unchecked by regulators and laws, meaning that the reasonability has sadly fallen on consumers to take action and investigate a products carbon footprint before buying them. Behavioural changes will require a change in mindset when it comes to trends and celebrity influence on the fashion industry. The negative implications of fast fashion creates a lack of creativity, sustainability, and individuality. Fashion which was used to perpetuate an individual’s personality, beliefs, and self-expression; now with mass production of unsatisfactory products creates a society of celebrity clones that have not got the lavish funds to buy the clothes seen on social media but can afford the products produced through fast fashion. A great example of this was by the comedian Tiffany Haddish who wore a beautiful Alexander McQueen dress famously to the Academy Awards, hosting SNL, and other events. The dress cost $4,000 and looks gorgeous on Tiffany Haddish, therefore, it goes without question that she would wear it multiple times. Tiffany Haddish stated in People Magazine that this is “the longest running joke in Hollywood” as it goes against societal rules to wear a dress multiple times in celebrity settings.[30] This may have been a light-hearted joke, but it highlights the damaging effect society and celebrity impressions are having on the world, creating a destructive throw-away culture that the natural world cannot keep up with. Celebrity and social media influencers contribute to a throw-away culture by creating unachievable trends to stay relevant, therefore, we must break this vicious cycle that contributes to fast fashion.
The narrative is starting to change with eco-clothing ventures and sustainable alternatives becoming available for people to access. The issue now is recognising when green washing occurs which tricks the consumer into thinking the products are recycled or made sustainably, but the brand still contributes highly to climate change and textile waste. Therefore, not all brand advertising can be trusted, but there are tools out there to help the consumer identify a trustworthy brand. The Good On You app is accessible and identifies sustainable and ethical clothing brands with easy to follow ratings.[31] This app partnered with consumers who are aware of the signs of fast fashion can make powerful changes. Some celebrities are using their platform to make a statement in favour of sustainable wardrobes, for example, Emma Watson who has promoted her love for vintage clothes. The actress has used her platform to showcase beautiful outfits and gowns that are either recycled or sustainably made, as she wore an Emilia Wickstead gown which was made with end-of-the line fabric and a Calvin Klein dress made out of recycled plastic bottles.[32] This illustrates the potential the fashion industry has to make a positive impact through using recycled materials. More celebrities are beginning to recycle their looks by altering dresses for different events, but it is still unique for a celebrity to wear the same outfit, which means there is still a long way to go to alter society’s behaviours. A sustainable option includes renting a dress, as the idea of ownership is another aspect that is contributing to fast fashion. It is questionable why we buy a piece of clothing if we know we will only wear it once, but renting is an option even with shopping retailers like John Lewis who provide the option to rent gowns for special events.[33]
The narrative that clothes must be new, trendy, and cheap can fester within communities, families, and friend groups. Identifying what clothes and style suits you best can help you invest in good quality products that will last. Even investing in clothing that you know will create different outfits can be a good product to add to your wardrobe. Investing in your wardrobe can ensure you buy the right products for you, and this doesn’t necessarily mean buying the most expensive products. Investing in you wardrobe can mean spending time investigation how it was produced or searching different brands for the best price. Charity shops are a great shopping experience with lots of bargains and pre-loved clothes that support a good cause. It is important to not be side-tracked with Black Friday deals or sales that push unwanted products that you could have gone without. Asking yourself where you can wear this, and its practicality can ensure you are an environmentally conscious shopper. As I come from a big family, and I have a twin, I got a lot of hand-me-downs and borrowed clothes so that my wardrobe always felt bigger than it actually was. The impulse to buy soon morphed into asking to borrow outfits from my sister and when my little sister gets old enough, she will have two other wardrobes to riffle around in. When I do buy clothes, I love brands that have character and have a positive meaning behind their brand. Big Wild Thought is a clothing brand that links with relevant wildlife charities and donates 10% of every sale, making a positive outcome to buying their products.[34]
Conclusion:
There are laws and regulations that fashion brands must adhere to when conducting business, however, there are no laws to prevent fast fashion and its negative impacts. This means that with the government’s failure, the responsibility falls on the consumer. The vast amount of clothing being produced and wasted is unsustainable and the effects on the environment may push past the point of recovery. Promoting this issue and the risk from shopping with brands that allow fast fashion can ensure people shop more vigilantly. The urgency this issue requires means it should be in the news everyday or at least on everyone’s minds when shopping, but in todays society it can be easy to forget. The ocean and the environment require urgent action and individuals taking charge of their own wardrobe can have a significant impact on reducing the effects of fast fashion. This change in mindset can start with mending clothes instead of buying new, saving special clothes that could be passed down to family members or friends, and renting or borrowing clothes. My prom dress was the same dress my aunt wore to her school prom, and I remember that I was one of the only few who did not have someone wearing the same outfit. It also meant a lot more wearing something a family member had worn and taken care of for so many years. The future of fashion can hopefully mean that people can look and feel good about the clothes they are buying, creating a sustainable future for the environment.
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